Sunday, December 9, 2018

survival hermitage book 5


SURVIVAL HERITAGE BOOK 5
WHY TRIBE? Continued.
Okay, so everyone is a danger, especially potential tribe members.  Why, you innocently ask as I gaze upon your empty skull in amusement, a wise teacher bemused by his students?  Because you are inviting those potential enemies inside your perimeter.  If you think Charlie is dangerous OUTSIDE, wait until you invite him to diner.  The most dangerous people are those you thought you could trust, like that sweet innocent gal teaching your Little Johnny about Butt Pirates, how diversity is our strength and the joys of being a Soy Boy.  But far more dangerous than delayed philosophical confusion.
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Your only alternative to trusting the lazy, greedy No Budgeting Mo-Fo’s to NOT screw you when their pathetic stash runs out is to stock up for them, in such quantities as they don’t see the benefit in killing you off and stealing your supplies.  AND to stock up for all their parasitic worthless camp followers.  Can you afford all that?  If so, go with God.  If not, you have no other alternative than trying to hide out from everyone and going it alone.  Being a hermit.  So, to the means to that end.
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Just being a hermit is going to go a long ways protecting you.  If nobody knows you are there it is hard to decide to attack you for the extra succulent flesh on your ass.  But there is a lot you need to do to substitute for extra people. There is no one to help you fight, no one to help you raise food.  No one to help build or gather firewood.  No one to patrol or guard for you.  You’ll need to do this yourself.  It obviously won’t be easy.  Neither is dealing with spoiled rotten idiots who think you owe them a life of luxury.
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Who said Apocalypses would be easy?  Marketing departments of prepper suppliers and most periodicals covering that field would lead you to believe that with a mere swipe of a credit card all good things are possible after a collapse, but only flaming idiots believe that.  But if not easy, we will at least aim at the situation most lonely preppers will find themselves.  Alone and old.  Like the geriatric rest home, but with better food.  You need to plan on not just being alone, but weak.  Most older preppers assume they need Oil Age tools.
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And you DO, but they really cannot be Fueled Tools.  An easy For Instance is that you cannot store a huge yard full of propane tanks for heat.  But super insulated homes with Oil Age insulation, that is great.  So insulated that solar gain ( cheap and affordable window panes are strictly Oil Age ) will keep you comfortable all day, and then you only need a few scraps of wood for night use ( and solar cookers for most daytime cooking ).  You avoid noisy chainsaws, unaffordable propane tanks of industrial size, and the need for help gathering wood.
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Firearms are a necessary tool, but they are also over rated and planned for inappropriately.  A semi-auto makes you far LESS effective than simply common sense applied tactics.  If you are a skilled woodsman, a bow would be adequate for guerrilla warfare, with at most a sidearm as back-up.  Far better to strike out without warning than having a plan to lay down covering fire in the hundreds of rounds.  If you have little cover, such as in the desert, a single shot ambush and a quick escape is also better than gearing up in Ninja submachinegunner gear.  
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You still need Oil Age tools, but one type of use is consuming and the other is conserving.  Wheat or other grains in storage is far cheaper and smarter than being in a agriculture location that is sure to be a target, and needing both supplies to equip a tribe for farming AND to protect the farm.  In theory you eat up all your stored food then die.  But also in theory you are overrun and killed for that farm that was planned on to feed you forever, anyway.  “Smart plans” must also be affordable and realistic.
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Another objection to not having a tribe is that it will be difficult to join a tribe after the die-off.  If you were twenty years old, I can understand your concern.  Are you?  Most of us are old.  Something like 40% of respondents in an online poll were preppers over age sixty.  Another large percentage were no where near as young as combat effectives would be.  My days of running about without heaving up a lung are about a half decade past, as of this writing.  Oh, you say, best be joining a tribe so you can just be a sedentary guard, right?
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Well, no.  Because not only are people evil and dangerous, they are also stupid.  Seriously.  Even those well read and logical, with education, do really stupid crap all the time.  Like myself, living in town.  I have hermitage property.  I have all the supplies I’d ever need.  I’m self employed from writing.  I KNOW I need to live out there.  And I don’t.  It doesn’t matter what excuse I use ( wanting to live my last year’s happy, with a companion ), the simple fact of the matter is that what I’m doing is really humping stupid.
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People are used to being stupid.  Look at how your pecker led you around for near forty years.  Look what makes you happy-a full belly and mindless entertainment ( you watch football, I watch movies or read ).  Individuals no matter how smart, act stupid.  We almost always run our societies to allow for stupid.  Everyone says, strength in numbers.  But those numbers are a bunch of friggin morons.  No matter what plan you come up with for survival, you are usually better off being on your own.  At least you know how your dumb ass will act.  You want to rely on another idiot for combat?
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Even if nothing else, THAT idiot will prioritize his own survival.  That is just the way it is, with ad hoc groups.  If you weren’t born and raised in a tribe, there is NO infrastructure built up to minimize the stupid and maximize everyone’s chances for survival.  THAT right there is the biggest reason to NOT form a tribe whole cloth.  It is an inferior organization.  BORN to tribe is best, followed by lone wolf.  The least effective is forming a tribe.  Because a tribe of what used to be individuals will always remain individualistic. 
( .Y. )
( today's related link here )
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note: KU books.  Unpublished Ayn Rand material here .  Her interview with Playboy magazine here .  Not prepper related but well written, white guys sells insurance in black ghetto in the Old Days.  It doesn't sound like much but I really enjoyed it here .  
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note: free for today books.  Dystopian here .
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22 comments:

  1. Very well done Jim. Accurate assessments on hermitage scenario and choices. I would recommend fellow Minions like me that are more lone wolf and only see the hermitage path as a viable option must do a lot of premptive steps now. While the systems function, and no calamity distractions are occuring, ween self off of the cultural and socialization heroin. A choice to turn your back on those not committed or capable must be made, whether friends or (yes also) family. If one can't go a few months or longer without having to "call someone for help, to fix things for you, or out of boredom or wanting "to do something" then stay in town or fall in line at fema camps. Hermitage is doable as an old geezer as long as you have some mobility. Dick Proenneke did it in Alaska 1960s@, starting out in his 50s building cabin, etc. Contact was only by bush plane drop offs of meager simple supplies. (Off grid, duh) only came out of wilderness at @ 85, so basicly hid out like 30 years, alone. His home made movies were on pbs, and should be out there to study. Good luck all!

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    1. Yeah, he probably wouldn't have made it had he started earlier. He had to get gals and socializing out of his system first. Living to 85 without medicine or doctors-amazing what pure and natural food and lots of moderate exercise do for you.

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    1. I just read about an electric saw being much quieter. Was it here? Not sure. Don't get me wrong-I love Chatty Charlies here in the comments. There is just too much to go back through.

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    2. I have 2 18volt battery chainsaws, very small. I also have 2 gas chainsaws. The battery ones are convenient for small stuff, no larger than say 4 to 6 inches in diameter. The oldest one was purchased at Northern Tool about 15 years ago. The charger died but I can use my Ryobi 18v batteries but have to hold them in place with a small bungee cord. It has about an 8" bar and is very light.

      The 2nd one is a Ryobi 18v pole saw with about a 9" bar. It is in 3 sections that screw together to make a total of 12 feet maximum. The motor is in the far end and gets heavy after awhile. Both are fairly quiet. I can recommend either and have used both extensively. Strangely enough Ryobi doesn't make a replacement chain but a generic one can be found on amazon and I bought one recently. I have a small rat tailed file and keep all my chains touched up and NEVER let them touch the ground. If you pay attention you can tell when the chain is dulling and can stop and touch it up. If you go to long you'll gall the teeth and they will dull ever quicker after sharpening. The trick is to never let them get that bad. My Stihl gas is about 3 years old and still has the original chain and my Poulan is about 15 years old and has had numerous chains on it. O likes me some chainsaw.

      One more thing. I have 2 reciprocating saws, 1 Ryobi 18v and a Milwaukee corded, and have used both extensively with 12" very coarse blades for limbing. They get heavy when trying to use them with 1 hand.

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    3. Electric saws are like 50 percent less decibles than blasting gas saws. It will still give away position if total stealth needed, as will hand sawing away at big lumber. If in reasonably wooded areas or older growth, there will be a lot of dead fall and debris that can be scavenged up for short term interim needs. This will act as a wild fire fuel clean up in an ever expanding circle from your base location. I noticed blm and forest crews have done fire break cutting along dirt roads through back areas, leaving them where they fall. Mental notes for minion allies.

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    4. They are MUCH quieter. And also stop more quickly, which is why I still have a left hand (long story - didn't involve emergency room).

      Chainsaw sharpening isn't horribly hard - but makes the day better when you do it. When our house was heated with wood, I always had the main plus a spare and two spare chains. I miss Alaska.

      This is a great series. The realities, the day by day monotony of a life lived without information . . . faceborg, netflax, how could we ever do it?

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    5. Crazy bastard! I like the cold over the heat. Alaska seems like too much of a good thing though.

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    6. 8:01-forest debris would be my method of choice, given options.

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    7. GS-what is the life on the batteries themselves? Nice to know the motors seem to last forever.

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    8. Can't say how long the Ryobi batteries will run with the chain cause I don't run it long, maybe 15 to 30 min. Ryobi has several levels of the lithium ion type and I get the best ones, 4 amp hours. I have more than 30 Ryobi 18v tools and have been using some of them since about 2000. I work the hell out of them and have never had a failure.

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    9. Not sure why more companies can't charge more and offer quality. Of course, I can't understand most things about most people.

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    1. I know this sounds retarded, but are there corded saws rather than battery powered? I ask because it doesn't seem very effective solar charging a battery to charge a saw battery.

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    2. Yes, you can buy corded saws Jim. As a matter of fact, I’m getting ready to put one together that my mother just bought, and will be sawing up some oak here in a short while. I’m sort of looking forward to not having to go through the hassle of starting up the old McCullough, and all the noise and smell that goes with it.

      Though when it comes to chainsaws, I must admit that I’ve always found chain sharpening to be a daunting task.

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    3. Thank you! Yeah, I suck at sharpening anything. Of course, I've never pretended to be all that graceful.

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    4. Sharpening the chain is very easy. Look up the file kits. It comes with the file and a mount that shows you the proper angle to use. It's best to start with a fairly new chain, not one that's been beat to death. Count the number of strokes on each tooth and be consistent. I usually do about 5 good strokes per tooth, but I do it after every use.

      My Stihl chain has the "easy start" system. Kinda disarming the first few times of use. You don't do all that ynking cause it has a spring of some sort. Lightly pull the cord and you can feel the tension rise as you pull it out, then once it gets to a certain point it "goes over the edge" and the engine cycles. If the choke is et it'll probably start the first time. 3 pulls max to get mine running.

      My Poulan is old skool and it can be contrary sometimes regarding pulling. That's where a can of "instant start" comes in handy. Ether. Spray it on the air cleaner then yank. VROOOM! Every workbench should have a few cans. Keep it away from heat and flame sources.

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    5. The sharpener kits. Does the mount actually hold the angle? In other words, is it idiot proof? Yeah, that's me when it comes to sharpening. You can show me the angle, and I'll screw it up. If I CAN'T move it out of angle, like the Lansky type of knife sharpener, I'm okay.

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    6. Frankly, I don't remember how that angle mount works. I used it the first couple times then took it off cause it was a little cumberson. If you look at how the chain tooth works you can see the angle isn't THAT critical. I mean, it's a chain, not a delicate $300 Stanley plane. Do google image search for the Stihl chain sharpener and take a good look. It's not rocket surgery to keep a chain razor but you DO have to do it. BTW, Stihl chainsaws are proprietary and their chains cost about 10-25% more than others, which will not fit. But Stihl, so far, is mountains above all others, though I've heard good remarks about Husquevarna.

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    7. No big deal, my chances of getting a chainsaw equal that of becoming rich and famous. I just love learning about stuff, in case. Or, just because. Inquiring minds want to know, and all that.

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    8. If there's the possibility to heat and cook with wood in the future, when other methods are difficult or impossible, I can see some value in a battery powered chainsaw that can be recharged with solar. Don't discount the value of a chainsaw for it can do, much easier, a very difficult task. Just looked up a Ryobi model on Home Depots site and it was more expensive than I was expecting. If I was in the market I'd get the 12" bar, 18v model that comes with (1) 4amp hour battery and charger, for $199. Ouch. That is if I didn't already have the battery and charger. But I do have them so they have the same model without the battery and charger for $169. Half a doz extra chains and a few gallons of blade oil and you're set for the next 10 years at least. Unless, of course, the thing we've been talking about happens and the shitty chainsaw suicides itself before it's expected time scale. I got enough chains so I don't see another in my future.

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    9. I still shake in utter fear over using a chainsaw. Once in this lifetime was enough ( no, I never saw the "Chainsaw Massacre" movie ). But in general I prefer electric power over 2 cycle, as they seem to just be far less prone to failure. Solar charging is just a bonus.

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