ammo quantity/quality 2

AMMO QUANTITY/QUALITY 2

I do not fall in any one camp with ammunition. I'm never Highest Quality, but I am usually middlin to Lowest Cost. It all depends on circumstances. Prior to 2008, you could buy the cheapest Wal-Mart rimfire for 1.7 cents each after sales tax, and it worked all day long, even in a $99 Wally special .22 rifle or a sixty year old no bluing out of time hardware store special revolver. Today, their four cent ammo has many tales of regular failures. I blame Remington, cashing in on the last of a once proud reputation, but I also blame anyone who deep stocks fifty thousand rounds without testing one of the boxes, after all the reports of Wally falling quality ( and, surely, your own experience in that ).

*

I never much gave any thought to my Enfield ammunition. It was almost all mil-spec from Commonwealth factories, or, eastern European new production with a decent reputation. All I was concerned about was getting enough cases to forever after reload my own ammunition. I've had bad luck with getting reloaded ammo from others, as the Quantity usually translated into poor Quality, but 9/10ths of my .38's are just such types. And I don't care. It is a gun I'm happy to have but will almost never use.

*

Because of the asswhore Gun Grabber communists, I reluctantly invested in the AR. I don't care for them, but they are about the cheapest and the best for spare parts. You might give no thought to that issue, but I did, after my Lee-Enfield went from a Bubba Gun to a collectors item and you cannot get parts anymore, not affordably. The AR's are JUST back-ups to my Enfield's. The 303 will rule the wastelands, not the flimsy AR's. Unless you got smart and made your AR a bolt action, AND have back-up's.

*

But I never considered reloading for the AR. I know you can and some folks do very cheaply, but that is NOT for me. The equipment investment would only make sense if you are spraying and praying semi-auto. You have to coat the bullets on the newer guns. The older ones can just be cast lead. Plenty of minions swear by steel case ammo. I'll do so, in newer guns. Older guns, with no spare parts, I won't take the chance. But if you are reloading, and can cast your bullets AND coat them, it is better to go brass case and reload. Cheaper, and better.

*

Another HUGE consideration is skill. I suck at shooting. It is not easy getting to a firing spot on a regular basis. I could, if I truly dedicated myself, but I have a feeling I would only get a marginal improvement at a very high cost. With funds I'd rather go to food. I just call myself a 100 yard shooter, and I'm okay with that. My eyesight is not great, and I won't invest enough to get decent scopes. One hundred yards is also usually sufficient in my terrain. This is not flatland desert, but rather rolling hills everywhere except river valley flatlands.

*

Why should I invest extra money in better ammunition, when I'm using these short ranges for shooting? I can't do head shots, it is torso hits or just blind luck. Even an AK at four inch MOA will do fine at a hundred yards. I believe the Tula ammo is about a 2 inch to 2.5 on a middlin AR. The gun shoots better than I do. The Enfield SHOULD in theory do the same, but used guns, especially combat guns, have too many variables. I don't expect much better than AK Accuracy on any of my shooting. Another good reason to stick to 100 yards.

*

Now, if you are a skilled shooter, then the equation changes. Better to have every round hit, rather than every two miss, at extended ranges. The thirty cent ammo is your 1 MOA, and will be worth more than your 16 cent steel case. Twice the price, but hitting THREE times as often, your brass case ammo is actually cheaper per hit. And that is PRIOR to reloading, if you even do. Since my marksmanship is barely qualifying, great ammo is wasted on me. So I go steel case on the AR. I got my seven thousand rounds stockpiled immediately, for about the same cost of three guns and an extra receiver ( plus tools ).

*

My biggest consideration was running out of time ( red flag in Nevada started January first, 2010, the twats ). Not quality but quantity. It works for me. My biggest mistake with my Enfield? Taking twenty plus years to get to the point I had more than enough ammunition. That was inexperience and a lack of education about the severity and proximity to the collapse. I won't make that mistake again, and I hope to keep you from following my poor example ( to be clear, I had enough to start, but not enough to match my later increased paranoia ).

*

I almost never have advice to give based on my positive example. I've made almost ALL the mistakes I caution against. Money down the crapper, and it would have killed me in different circumstances. Ammo is MORE important than guns. I'm glad I got my guns when I did, but they were so cheap then that I had no excuse not to follow up quicker with ammunition. To think, at one time I thought thirty cent battle rifle thirty cal was too expensive! Get mass quantities of food for yourself, and for your firearms, NOW.

*

Even if every one of you is on a budget, you can get BOTH quantity and quality of ammunition, now. Either go all in on steel case or go all in on reloading with quality brass. You can get those case prices down to near enough sub-twenty cents each round. If you are dirt poor, you trade in your semi's for bolt action. Then your minimum of quantity goes down. Reloading need only be as expensive as you desire. You can trade speed for cash savings. At today's prices, no one should be without ten thousands of rounds of ammo. You can even reload rimfire if needs be.

*

I can hear you now. But Jim, the amount of money you saved on hair care products allowed you to have the thousands of dollars in savings needed for all that ammo, new guns, and reloading supplies over the last year. Granted, I couldn't have done it without squirreling away money in my last working year at a “real” job ( yeah, real abuse, from real pricks, for not really very good pay ). But need I remind you, that was $10k GROSS, and THEN the prick Obammy took something like $600 for that no insurance fee. I netted something like $575 a month ( writing income went to reference books ). And THAT is what I saved up, after living expenses. If I can do you on so little, I'm confused why anyone else has issues.

*

And in months, not years. You NEED quantity. Your quality needs are dependent on your wages and skill. But nobody has to do without quantity, not at these prices, and not on this much shortened emergency time frame. Stock it deep people.

( .Y. )

( today's related Amazon link click HERE )

*

Please support Bison by buying through the Amazon links here ( or from http://bisonprepper.com/2.html or www.bisonbulk.blogspot.com ). Or PayPal www.paypal.me/jimd303 

*** Unless you are in extreme poverty, spend a buck a month here, by the above donation methods ( I get 4% of the Amazon sale, so you need to buy $25 worth for me to get my $1 ) or mail me some cash/check/money order or buy a book ( web site for free books, Amazon to pay just as a donation vehicle ).

*** My e-mail is: jimd303@reagan.com My address is: James M Dakin, 181 W Bullion Rd #12, Elko NV 89801-4184 ***E-Mail me if you want your name added to the weekly e-newsletter subscriber list.

*** Pay your author-no one works for free. I’m nice enough to publish for barely above Mere Book Money, so do your part.*** junk land under a grand *  Lord Bison* my bio & biblio* my web site is www.bisonprepper.com *** Wal-Mart wheat***Amazon Author Page
* By the by, all my writing is copyrighted. For the obtuse out there